Beneath the moss-draped squares and stately homes lies a city of speakeasies, ghost stories and rebellious charm
By Rebecca Toy
Savannah’s ever-present oak trees wear Spanish moss like a velvet shawl, casting a mysterious allure over an already charming city.
The “Hostess City of the South” preens with green in Georgia’s coastal climate, lending itself to ubiquitous garden parties. The sounds of laughter and clinking glasses float through the city’s verdant square. As horse-drawn carriages clip past 200-year-old homes, the scene is so picturesque it feels staged. Savannah is always ready for the spotlight.
For many travelers, John Berendt’s 1994 bestseller “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil” cemented the city in the national imagination: eccentric, glamorous and tinged with danger. The book (and Clint Eastwood’s film adaptation) turned Savannah into a destination for literary pilgrims. But any Savannahian will tell you that long before “The Book,” the city thrived on hidden layers. Isolated by islands and marshes, genteel Savannah also nurtured a roguish streak, harboring pirates and rum runners while creating ghost stories on every corner and cocktails strong enough to fuel legends.
Storybook Savannah
Walk through photo-famous Forsyth Park on a sunny morning, and you’ll find the Savannah everyone desires. Locals walk their dogs beneath the live oaks, families pose by the ornate grand fountain and visitors linger on shaded benches beneath swaying moss.
The 30-acre park is the southern bookend of the historic district, 50 blocks of carefully restored 18th- and 19th-century homes, restaurants, shops and bars. Yet the city’s unique layout feels more like a long stroll through palatial gardens than a modern cityscape. City founder James Oglethorpe’s vision endures: a grid layout featuring 22 squares filled with flowering shrubs, statues and a diverse array of flora that thrive in the subtropical climate.
As you head north to the river, greenery dominates your view, with each square clearly visible ahead, and Victorian and Georgian architecture peeking out from the edges.
The steep steps down to River Street warn pedestrians to take care—a necessary caution in a city that permits the open carry of alcohol as part of its commitment to conviviality. Savannah’s oldest street is worth the maneuvering. Cobblestones lead to boutiques and cafes that spill down to the waterfront, while rooftop bars offer rare aerial views of the city and the ships gliding into port. It’s elegant, leisurely and precisely what a visitor comes to Savannah to enjoy. Yet just beneath this surface, another city waits, a Savannah of shadows, secrets and scandalous stories.
Savannah in the Shadows
Even though the city developed after the Golden Age of piracy, locals love the lore, and they don’t just have to rely on Blackbeard’s Savannah exploits in “Treasure Island” to prove it. See for yourself on a tunnel tour that spiderwebs beneath the streets. Once used for smuggling and storage, stories also abound of sailors lured into waterfront taverns, drugged and dragged underground to wake up conscripted on a ship bound for Europe or the Caribbean.
The tunnels certainly aided in rum-running during Prohibition, when Savannah was the “Bootleg Spigot of the South.” The Prohibition Museum offers modern visitors a glimpse into the drama and moonshine and will clue you in to the vibrant speakeasy scene. Slip behind unmarked doors in the historic district for sultry basement lounges with top-tier libations.
Whether you imbibe in speakeasies or on garden patios, cocktail culture in Savannah is renowned. Just beware the Chatham Artillery Punch, one of the most infamously strong drinks in American history. First concocted in the 1700s, newspapers reported that it took generals, politicians and even George Washington to their knees. The recipe reads like a dare: rum, brandy, bourbon, Champagne and a generous squeeze of citrus. Bars serve a tamer version, but sip it slowly—this punch will sneak up on you.
Locals swear guests are in for a surprise by a different kind of spirit. Considered one of the most haunted cities in the nation, Savannah treats its ghosts lightly, as if they’re just another set of locals lingering on the squares. The Mercer-Williams House, immortalized in “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil,” remains the city’s most notorious address.
Tour guides still lower their voices when describing the murder that took place inside. Yet there’s a haunt for every hotel and home, and even the most sensible historic tour will spin you some ghost tales. It’s the city’s embrace of the macabre along with its refined beauty that makes Savannah so magnetic.
Insider Tips
Dining Delights: The Olde Pink House and Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room are institutions of classic Southern comfort food, but The Grey, located in a refurbished 1930s Greyhound terminal, is currently a national sensation. Savannah’s range goes far beyond fried chicken: fresh seafood at Sorry Charlie’s Oyster Bar, creative gastropub takes at Treylor Park and traditional shepherd’s pie at Six Pence Pub all nail their styles.
Crafted Cocktails: “Best cocktail bar” is a phrase guaranteed to start a debate in Savannah. The Artillery Bar, with white marble counters and velvet banquettes, turns an old armory into an elegant night out. On the other end of the spectrum, The Bamboo Room commits to the Tiki theme with vigor, blending authentic tropical drinks with its flamboyant decor. Bar Julien, the waterfront Thompson Hotel’s rooftop bar, offers some of the best views and drinks, making it the place to be at sunset. Locals love the Savoy Society and Over Yonder, the first serves the famous punch.
Great Guides: From bicycle bar carts to elegant horse-drawn carriages, the city has an answer for every interest. For a little bit of everything, the Savannah Taste Experience makes a great introduction to the city’s history and food scene while also pointing out where to find speakeasies like Alley Cat Lounge and La Aparicion.
