A river cruise is a luxurious, relaxing way to experience centuries of history and gastronomic excellence
By Rebecca Toy
While most travelers picture Paris when they think of France, cruising the southern Rhône River through Provence is the best way to experience the famous culinary region that has won travelers’ hearts for millennia.
A river cruise trip makes everything easy with flights directly into Lyon, the northern port for this 8-day journey. Fares include transit, meals and many excursions as the ship sails towards the Mediterranean, ending in Avignon with transit to nearby Marseille for flights home.
Yet, this is not just about ease. Cruising a European river is an elegant adventure. Luxurious, elongated ships rarely host more than 200 guests throughout spacious suites with expansive windows, sunny terrace bars and an observation deck providing panoramic views. Passengers step off the ship directly into the heart of a historic city and enjoy curated small-group tours, concierge-organized private experiences or the freedom to wander. The sights never stop while navigating locks, spotting castles and chateaus, and waving to excited school children.
The Rhône route serves up surprises beyond its celebrated food and wine. From the Alps to the Mediterranean, Provence has Renaissance villages, Roman amphitheaters, Gothic cathedrals, lavender fields and rugged national parks. The best excursions get intimate with the ancient history and agrarian landscape. For the complete French vacation, add a few days in Paris—arranged by your cruise line—before or after your sail.
The Lion of France
Surrounded by two famous wine regions and home to some of the country’s best chefs, Lyon is quintessential France without the frenzy of Paris. This city is easy to explore, and its splendid architecture ranges from Renaissance homes to Baroque neighborhoods. Let cruise lines’ complimentary excursions serve as a sampler introduction, then step out to explore on your own.
Vieux Lyon—the largest Renaissance district in the city—is perfect for a splendid stroll. Take the funicular to the Basilica de Notre Dame, which dominates the skyline. Stroll to the Roman theater and reflect on those who have done the same since the first century. A curving path down through city gardens ends in the warrens of traboules—once used to move people and weapons around the city and to escape from the Nazis—of the Old City. Step through one of the unassuming wooden doors and watch with wonder as a hidden neighborhood of covered alleys and arches unfolds. These medieval paths kept expensive silk dry in transit to the port. Admire modern silk shops and eat at a cozy bouchon, the traditional eateries that savvy culinary experts flock to in France.
Add a jaunt north into Beaujolais with the additional time most cruise lines spend here. Viking Cruise’s truffle-hunting experience has you tromping after a playful pup on the prowl, followed by fresh fare for lunch straight from the estate. The region is often known for its young wine, but tastings will prove that Beaujolais has the same robust pours as its neighbors.
Valleys and Vines
As you sail south, steep slopes rise from the banks, giving the clinging vineyards that cover the region the adversity they need to create world-class wine. The middle of the itinerary is leisurely, admiring châteaus and ducking under bridges as cars honk hello. Yet these valleys also have historic treasures and natural wonders for plenty of action.
The decision-making starts in Tournon-sur-Rhône. Many travelers climb aboard the historic steam train through a protected gorge, but a guided hike through internationally renowned vineyards with unwavering views of the river delights wine lovers. Finish with a tasting of local varietals like syrah (shiraz) or marsanne and then a stop at the famous Valrhona Chocolate.
“We are more farmers here than businessmen,” explains vineyard guide Solene Boussand. “Any time you can go and see where our famous food and wines start.”
Most lines also offer an adventure into the more rugged Ardeche Valley, considered the “Grand Canyon of Europe.” Lavender fields, cliffside villages and a preserved Roman aqueduct leave travelers regaling fellow guests with details over dinner.
Meeting the Mediterranean
As the Rhône runs to the Mediterranean Sea, the winds warm as slopes flatten. In the south, Avignon and Arles are ancient cities founded by the Gauls and Phoenicians before the Roman Empire arrived. For medieval might, Avignon centers around the rebellious Palais des Pape, resulting from the Pope temporarily leaving Rome in the 14th century. Arles showcases Roman remains, including a two-story arched arena, theater, baths and crypts.
Arles was also the temporary home of Vincent Van Gogh, who sought sunshine and refuge from Paris. An Avalon Waterways cruise adds a bespoke experience with a small art group, touring the town from Van Gogh’s perspective before painting for several hours. Travel expert Meena Thiruvengadam remembers the outing fondly: “[This] sparked a love of painting while traveling for me that I probably wouldn’t have slowed down for otherwise.”
South of Arles, at the mouth of the sea, a national park excursion defies stereotypical French landscapes. The marshlands of Camargue are home to migratory flamingos and wild horses. In Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mar, streetside vendors sell paella out of massive pans while the region’s traditional guardians shepherd bulls down the city streets. Don’t miss the village of Aigues-Mortes—its imposing walls separate the town from the pink salt flats stretching to the sea.
Late spring and early autumn are the best months to cruise, with mild weather and fewer crowds. Yet, wherever you go and whatever you explore, genuine delights await you on the Rhône.
Viking Cruises
Avalon Waterways
